An Edge in the Kitchen

One of Bob Kramer’s gorgeous custom Damascus chef’s knives.

There were many highlights at the 2008 Blade Show in Atlanta, including dinner with Murray Carter and an intimate group of his colleagues and supporters. The biggest surprise of the show, however, was the announcement of Shun’s collaboration with ABS Mastersmith Bob Kramer to produce a commercial version of his most popular chef’s knife. The prototype won Kitchen Knife of the Year at the Blade Show.

Bob Kramer custom on top, Shun’s version in Damascus-clad SG2 below.

Kramer’s knives have been favorites among kitchen knife fanatics and design junkies for a while, but it was a very favorable mention in Cook’s Illustrated that brought him to more mainstream attention. His straight carbon (52100) chef’s knives start at $475 and the Damascus versions can run well over a thousand — if you can get one. Kramer is now so backlogged with orders for his hand forged knives that he is not taking new orders for the foreseeable future. So the timing is perfect for a mass market Kramer chef’s knife. Shun has licensed Kramer’s design and produced a knife that will up the ante for design, performance and price among commercially available kitchen knives. Kitchen knife enthusiasts have long been used to high-octane edges and superior performance from boutique makers. Now the general public gets a chance to see what that can feel like.

The biggest difference in the Shun version is the steel. Kramer’s knife is made from thousands of layers of hand forged Damascus steel. It is not stainless. The Shun version is high-tech SG2 powdered steel clad in a softer stainless Damascus jacket. It is stainless, so a little more tolerant of typical conditions in a non-fanatic’s kitchen. If Shun follows the pattern of the Shun Elite series in the same steel, the edge should be right around 64 on the Rockwell C scale. Nice. In our conversation, Kramer said that he was very impressed with the SG2 steel. The feel of the knife is very close to the original. Heft and balance are spot on. The handle slabs are a little chunkier with a more pronounced palm swell than the elegant Kramer handle. These are just my impressions from a brief fondle at the show. I hope to get a knife in for review at some point in the near future.

The Shun-Kramer chef’s knife will be a Sur La Table exclusive for the first year. Pricing has not yet been announced. I’m guessing $450 MSRP with a street price in the $325 to $350 range.

Things are still perking along behind the scenes here at Edge in the Kitchen world headquarters. I’m told that the printing gnomes have nearly finished their jobs. The finished books should be coming off the presses today, well ahead of the June 10 on-sale date. I’m certain there will be Harry Potter-like midnight sharpening & garnishing parties at bookstores worldwide as the eager masses count down the minutes until the store can officially sell the book.</p> <p style=”>There are big plans for the website, including a redesign to feature some of Bryan Reagan’s great photography from the book. Here’s what’s coming in the next few weeks:

• Technique of the Week: Each week will feature a new technique or skill — from chiffonade to sharpening — fully illustrated with step-by-step photographs and detailed instructions. You’ll be a julienning genius in no time.
• Blade Show Roundup: I’ll be in Atlanta at the world’s largest cutlery expo May 30 through June 1. Some of the best custom kitchen knife makers in the world will be there, including Murray Carter, Shosui Takeda and Shinichi Watanabe. I’ll bring home photos, interviews and reports from the show on the latest in kitchen cutlery.
• My Knives: I’m frequently asked what knives I use in the kitchen. I’ve owned nearly every chef’s knife in existence and have settled on a select collection that ranges from the exotic to the pedestrian. I’ll give you the guided tour.
• Video! I’m working on a series of brief knife skills videos for the site. You’ll be enthralled by their low-budget charm.

A cook should be aware of his or her own habits and style because knives always adjust as they are used by a particular person. They adapt to that person. Masaharu Morimoto, from An Edge in the Kitchen.