An Edge in the Kitchen

“If you cut yourself, you are going too fast or you are not focused” Sara Moulton, Executive Chef Gourmet magazine, author of Sara’s Secrets for Weeknight Meals

I don’t cut myself often. But I am in commercial kitchens regularly, I have kids (one of whom the ER docs know by name), and I spend a lot of time with knives. Accidents happen. A first aid kit and fire extinguisher should be part of every kitchen. When the inevitable does happen, I am a big fan of 3M’s Nexcare line of bandages, especially their Active and Waterproof bandages. The waterproof bandages are the only ones I’ve found capable of surviving the wet, active environment of the kitchen. Every other brand just shreds or falls off after a hand-washing or two. The Nexcare waterproof bandages stay with you and keep your cut clean and dry. That’s a good thing at home. It’s critical in a restaurant kitchen. The last thing you need is your bandage coming off when you’re elbow deep in a stock pot.

I’ve got to say, though, that I’ve found a new addition to my kit, the KytoStat bandages from HemCon. Originally developed to stop hemorrhaging and severe bleeding on the battlefield, their blood-stopping technology migrated first to hospital emergency departments but is now available to retail consumers. The bandages are made from chitosan, a natural derivative of shrimp shells. When it comes into contact with blood the bandage becomes extremely sticky, forming an adhesive, antibacterial seal over the wound. The positively charged chitosan attracts negatively charged red blood cells, causing coagulation and clotting. Bleeding stops fast. These bandages are especially useful for people on dialysis, undergoing chemotherapy, using blood thinners, taking anti-coagulants or anyone whose natural clotting ability is diminished or non-existent. For the rest of us, they are a way to rapidly and effectively stop the bleeding and seal the cut. The downside for kitchen use is that the KytoSan bandages have to be kept dry. That means a finger cot or glove. Even with that caveat, the science behind these things is amazing.

KytoStat bandages are not cheap. A three-pack from Drugstore.com is $15USD, but if you need them, it’s worth it. Luckily I have not had the chance to “field test” my KytoStat bandages yet. I keep one in my kitchen first aid kit and one in my knife roll for travel. I’ll let you know if I get the chance to use one.

Received a very kind mention on Michael Ruhlman’s blog. He lists An Edge in the Kitchen as one of his Books Worth Reading and Using. For those who don’t know, Ruhlman is the author of The Elements of Cooking, The Making of a Chef and several other books which offer keen insights into the mind of a chef and the business of commercial cooking. He is also the co-authored The French Laundry Cookbook with Thomas Keller and the utterly brilliant Charcuterie: The Craft of Salting, Smoking and Curing with Brian Polcyn. To say I’m flattered would be a grave understatement.

One of Bob Kramer’s gorgeous custom Damascus chef’s knives.

There were many highlights at the 2008 Blade Show in Atlanta, including dinner with Murray Carter and an intimate group of his colleagues and supporters. The biggest surprise of the show, however, was the announcement of Shun’s collaboration with ABS Mastersmith Bob Kramer to produce a commercial version of his most popular chef’s knife. The prototype won Kitchen Knife of the Year at the Blade Show.

Bob Kramer custom on top, Shun’s version in Damascus-clad SG2 below.

Kramer’s knives have been favorites among kitchen knife fanatics and design junkies for a while, but it was a very favorable mention in Cook’s Illustrated that brought him to more mainstream attention. His straight carbon (52100) chef’s knives start at $475 and the Damascus versions can run well over a thousand — if you can get one. Kramer is now so backlogged with orders for his hand forged knives that he is not taking new orders for the foreseeable future. So the timing is perfect for a mass market Kramer chef’s knife. Shun has licensed Kramer’s design and produced a knife that will up the ante for design, performance and price among commercially available kitchen knives. Kitchen knife enthusiasts have long been used to high-octane edges and superior performance from boutique makers. Now the general public gets a chance to see what that can feel like.

The biggest difference in the Shun version is the steel. Kramer’s knife is made from thousands of layers of hand forged Damascus steel. It is not stainless. The Shun version is high-tech SG2 powdered steel clad in a softer stainless Damascus jacket. It is stainless, so a little more tolerant of typical conditions in a non-fanatic’s kitchen. If Shun follows the pattern of the Shun Elite series in the same steel, the edge should be right around 64 on the Rockwell C scale. Nice. In our conversation, Kramer said that he was very impressed with the SG2 steel. The feel of the knife is very close to the original. Heft and balance are spot on. The handle slabs are a little chunkier with a more pronounced palm swell than the elegant Kramer handle. These are just my impressions from a brief fondle at the show. I hope to get a knife in for review at some point in the near future.

The Shun-Kramer chef’s knife will be a Sur La Table exclusive for the first year. Pricing has not yet been announced. I’m guessing $450 MSRP with a street price in the $325 to $350 range.

“An Edge in the Kitchen” received a starred review in Publishers Weekly.

LIFESTYLE
An Edge in the Kitchen: The Ultimate Guide to Kitchen Knives
Chad Ward. Morrow, $34.95 (240p) ISBN 9780061188480
Though humans have been using knives for about two and a half million years, you’ll be hard pressed to find as succinct and complete a collection of wisdom on the topic as this masterful volume from cook and writer Ward. He covers nearly everything, from construction and general knife care to proper storage and sharpening, giving cooks all the information they need. Detailed instructions on how to use the most common knives are bolstered with photos that thoroughly illustrate key techniques like dicing, chiffonade and julienne, as well as the lost art of cutting up a whole chicken. Though enthusiastic about his subject, Ward maintains a refreshing level of sanity throughout, reminding readers that they really only need three knives—a chef knife, a paring knife and a bread knife—to accomplish the vast majority of tasks. Better yet, Ward offers recommendations for budgets under $100, as well as reliable sources for custom-made kitchen knives (which “can be had for about the same price as you’d pay for the more pedestrian stuff”). Those looking for in-depth descriptions of every knife imaginable and/or detailed butchery instructions will not find it here, but those interested in upgrading or maintaining a reliable set of knives will find this book as indispensable as the tools themselves. (June)

Jason Perlow and I had a lengthy conversation about kitchen knives when he was in Raleigh. The result has just been posted on his award winning foodie website, Off the Broiler. You can listen to the podcast while you peruse photos of my less than immaculate kitchen.